Munich Foodie Travel
Munich Foodie Travel
Munich
Dallmayr (Dienerstraße 14) Just off the plane and I know just where I am headed, to the old town for lunch at the beautiful Gastronomia Dallmayr. The downstairs shop tempts with all kinds of delicacies: both prepared foods and raw (even lobsters living in a bubbling fountain), cheeses, exquisite desserts and an interesting wine selection.
The upstairs café has a pleasant mix of locals camped out drinking coffee and reading newspapers and tourists in for a sight-seeing respite and some gourmet sustenance. I immediately eye the tagliatelle on my neighbor’s plate and decide it’s a must.
The sauce is lobster cream with a hint of roasted tomato and the abundant shrimp are roasted to concentrate their flavor and marry well with a glass of Grüner Veltliner. The sauce is perfectly seasoned and finished with just a kiss of dill- great for dipping the chewy bread into! Well worth the €14. The salads look equally yummy especially one with rare beef and peaches. Don’t skip the espresso- it might be the most perfect crema in Germany! I definitely recommend the café and, for those seeking a more upscale experience, Dallmayr also has a Michelin 2 star restaurant.
From Above
Another great gastronomic must is the Viktualienmarkt about 150 outdoor permanent stalls selling delectable items from Germany and all over Europe.
It’s a great place to stock up on picnic supplies or have a picnic right in the market. Looks like the thing to do! Don’t miss this.
Geisel’s Vinothek (Schuetzenstrasse 11) is, as the name would imply, a wine bar/restaurant. It’s located in an interesting boutique hotel (Hotel Excelsior) and is the perfect call for a casual evening with good food and interesting wines.
Hotel Excelsior
Grissini (breadsticks) wrapped in succulent prosciutto di San Daniele sure do get things off to a good start.
The sea bass carpaccio with fish roe and avocado mousse is sophisticated without being overly complicated. I know it’s a cop-out to have pasta in Germany, so go ahead and roll your eyes and make fun of me for not ordering the platter of wurst. Hey, I need to seize the light fare while I have the chance! Al dente? absolutely, big thumb’s up (!!)... Light? only if you don’t eat the whole half pound serving on the plate! The tomato sauce is perfectly arrabiata (spicy) and fully incorporated into the penne. Bravo!
The venison is succulent with a lightly gaminess that pairs well to the cherry wine sauce and porcini.
And the wines? Vinothek has a comprehensive selection and a knowledgeable staff who turned me on to a Spätburgunder, basically a pinot noir, which is earthy and delicious with the meal.
The fruit tart/sorbet dessert makes for a light ending. Geisel’s Vinothek is definitely worth seeking out affordable yet utterly tasty experience. The 3 course tasting menu is €38 while the substantial plate of pasta was only €9.
In some foodie publication I came across a pizzeria called La Famiglia. It is touted as having a wood-burning oven. Since you never know when your last good Pizza Margarita (topped with mozzarella di bufala, basil and tomato sauce) is going to be, I decide to give it a go.....NOT advisable. There is no way this pizza ever saw a wood-burning oven.
Look at the crust- no char whatsoever!
So, I’m off in search of wurst. But really, does this look better?
This is the wurst from the restaurant at the Chinesischer Turm in the Englischer Garten, the famous park Northeast of the historic district. The grilled wurst is actually much better!
Farm-To-Table Goodness- Locavores should definitely put Broeding (Schulstrasse 9) on the short list (or can you be a locavore if your menu and wine list are Austrian and you’re in Munich?) No matter- Munich is close enough to the border for me and, most importantly, the food’s waaaay too delicious to get hung up on such details). Located in a residential section, Broeding has an inviting dining room inside, but with perfect weather, the back courtyard is the place to be! It’s filled with young stylish neighborhood couples away from the kids (think Manhattan’s UES crowd).
They have a set menu every day but will happily accommodate any dietary quirks or desires. Tonight’s line-up doesn’t stand any room for improvement for me:
Prosciutto, pickled flat bean and pesto for the amuse bouche,
Filo cup filled with some “fifth quarter” meats (in a decadent sauce) and a small sesame crusted veal liver garnished with nasturtium blossoms,
Octopus in a subtle cherry tomato broth
Salmon with braised fennel and pine nuts
Chicken cooked 2 ways, served with polenta stuffed zucchini blossoms (fiori di zucca!) and hen of the woods mushrooms
Basil ice cream with saffron
Berries and a light yogurt custard
The wine list is amazing, but for a very reasonable sum (€23 per person on the night of my visit) the knowledgeable sommelier will choose a glass from the 100% Austrian list appropriate for each course. It’s a great way to learn about some wines you may not otherwise encounter. If you fall in love with something, the restaurant conveniently operates a retail wine store and you can take home a bottle (or 3, as in my case)!
Amuse Bouche
Veal Liver with Nasturtium Salad
The wine served with the Octopus in brodo is smooth and round with just enough acidity to be perfectly balance. One for the to-go bag!
Salmon with Braised Fennel
Chicken with Zucchini Blossoms with an earthy delicious Pinot Noir
Pre-dessert
Did I mention the Germans must to be able to put away an inordinate amount of food? These portions were not “tasting menu” size but way too good not to eat (almost) every bite! Warning to dainty eaters...Pace yourself!
This restaurant is definitely worth seeking out. Tasting menu- approximately €55 (a fantastic value!)
If you’re in search of food on the way back to Munich from Neuschwanstein Castle, Zum Stern, meaning Star Inn (Dorfstrasse 2 in Seehausen) is a good spot. Note- there are no English menus and the staff does not speak much English either. A friendly person seated nearby is able to translate which dishes on the menu are “fish, pig, cow, deer etc.” to help in the ordering. Take a dictionary or be adventurous. The fresh lake pike perch is especially good and even thought the venison is a bit over-sauced by my standards it’s tender and well cooked.
spaetzle
The short wine list is mainly comprised of Italian offerings. Mains are in the €12-20 range. I recommend it for a stop on the way back from the famous castle.
Munich Hotels:
Le Meridian, Bayerstrasse 41 Despite its train station location, this is a very quiet hotel with spacious rooms and modern fittings.
Hotel Excelsior, Schuetzenstrasse 11 This is beautifully appointed boutique hotel in a nice area. A big plus- the wine bar/ restaurant on the ground floor (reviewed above).
Ciao for Now!
8/19/09
8/15/09
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