My first stop is Barcelona on the Northeastern coast.  It’s a great city filled with interesting architecture by Gaudí.  After the nine hour flight a nap does sound pretty good but I wouldn’t want to sleep through a meal, so I’m off to the Boqueria Market, just off Las Ramblas.

The Boqueria is a feast for the senses- lots of fresh fish, tons of foie gras...

There are several Tapas Bars in the Market. Pinxto near the entrance is very famous.

The bars fill up rapidly for lunch even if you arrive early by Spanish standards (13:00).  Since I’m fresh off the plane, I haven’t quite gotten the hang of elbowing my way to the bar for food and drink!  Luckily, I was spotted by a kind bartender at BAR CENTRAL as being hungry, travel-weary and in need of some help.  He poured me a glass of wine and told me where to stand so I could snag the soon-to-be vacated seat. 

The mixed seafood platter is excellent and even has one of my favorites, razor clams!  Also on offer is a platter of mixed veggies, and, as I was soon to find out, vegetables are a rarity in Spain, so don’t miss your chance like I did!  Bar Central was value-priced with a very high quality of food.  It is located in the very back of the market right in the middle (straight back from the main entrance). 

For dinner I chose INOPIA in El Raval owned by Alberto Adría, the brother of world famous, Ferran.  They do not take reservations so arrive by 20:00 and you should avoid having to wait in the long line that forms later in the evening.

The helpful bartender was anxious to practice some English and explain the specials to me.

These were the best Sea Snails of the trip, tasting nothing like the ones that live in dirt.  They have a delicate briny taste and just the right amount of texture without being too chewy.

Everything was top quality and delicious.  I highly recommend that you add Inopia to your Barcelona restaurant list. 

The Eixample neighborhood is famous for its architecture, but it became my favorite food neighborhood too!

Take a break from sightseeing at the elegant GRESCA.  The €17 prix fixe of 3 courses was just what the doctor ordered.  The crowd was sophisticated and local and the food...

top notch!  Gazpacho with ceviche was light and perfectly seasoned.  The Jamón Iberico de Bellota (Spain’s famous cured ham) with a poached farm egg was delicious too. 

Cock’s Comb might not be everyone’s cup of tea but this one was meltingly tender!  Make a reservation.

Unless you really like touristic and over-priced experiences, I would avoid Passadis del Pep at all costs!  Although, the food was good, there are no menus and no questions about what you would like to eat or drink!  You just sit down and the Cava and platters of food start coming.  In theory, I like being served what’s fresh without being given much of a choice, as long as the final tab seems reasonable And, I feel I have a fairly liberal definition of “reasonable”.   The bill came to €100 per person and nothing was technically “ordered”!  For Barcelona, a reasonably priced town by all other accounts, the price was outrageous.  The crowd? 100% tourists, usually groups of 8-12.  Ca Pep has the same owner.  I have read mixed reviews on that too so I’d avoid that as well, given that there are so many fabulous places to eat. 

The Barceloneta Neighborhood (near the water) is home to a couple worthy stops. 

EL VASO DE ORO has a with the neighborhood crowd.  I had a very generously-sized tuna tapa that was delicious.  I was seated near the grill and I can say the steak looked equally mouth-watering but I had my sights set on LA COVA FUMADA, a restaurant that keeps odd hours (like closing at 13:00 for lunch on Sundays, a time 2 hours before any self-respecting Spaniard would even start contemplating lunch).  It’s lunch only and specializes in fabulous grilled calamari.  The crowd? Local fishermen, so I’m pretty comfortable that it’s fresh!

For an elegant meal with a stylish neighborhood crowd, head to FONDA GAIG in Eixample.  It is the second restaurant of the Michelin-starred chef, Carlos Gaig.  Unfortunately, I did not have my camera, but the atmosphere is lovely and the food worthy of Gaig’s name.  The rabbit was perfectly cooked, but the lamb really stole the show.  An elegant meal for two, replete with silver and professional service, all for the reasonable price of €100 including appetizers, dessert and a great bottle of wine is a must-do.  Reserve.

For my last meal in Barcelona I’m going back to my favorite neighborhood, Eixample, to dine at PACO MERALGO.

The best Pan Tomate of the trip...maybe they’re using San Marzano tomatoes (from Italy)!

From the seafood to the foie gras, Paco Meralgo is a hit.  They take reservations, so make one.  This is tapas-style food but someplace you go for an entire meal.  Everything was fresh, well-seasoned and sufficiently creative.  A bonus is that’s it’s also well-priced. 

Barcelona is a must and I would recommend staying in Eixample, after all, if you take my advice you’ll be eating lots of your meals there!  Both the bus and metro are safe and easy to use.

                            CIAO FOR NOW!  Next stop- the island of Mallorca.