San Sebastián is truly a foodie’s paradise.  There are more Michelin starred restaurants here than any other city in Europe (except Paris).  The quality of food reaches far beyond the doors of the Michelin Stars though.  At every price point quality abounds.  You can head to the tapas bars for both quality products and star-worth creativity.

San Sebastián has the best urban beach I have seen in Europe. 

ARZAK is arguably one of the most famous restaurants in San Sebastián.  Juan Mari Arzak is really one of the fathers of modern Spanish cuisine and even served as an early mentor for Ferran Adriá.  Arzak can still be seen in the kitchen and making the rounds of the dining room even though his daughter, Elena, is now taking the lead role in the kitchen. 

The atmosphere is comfortable and the waitstaff primarily female.  It doesn’t have a 3 star, that is overly-formal, atmosphere.  I don’t mean this in a bad way at all.  Everyone is very professional, the menu well explained and, of course, the plates are presented and cleared at the same exact moment, but it’s jovial, a place you could eat once a week (pocketbook allowing).

I had read that photography is discouraged at Arzak, as it is at most 3 stars, so I will post no photos.  Although there are menus, ordering is really an interview of preferences, so each person gets their very own personal tasting menu customized with all their faves!  (It’s a foodie’s version of a custom suit!)  Go- It’s a great splurge and I think that Arzak keeps earning those 3 stars.

La Passeggiata - I had read that everyone in San Sebastián walks (or is pushed in a stroller or wheelchair) all the times, but I was in no way prepared for this!  The young, the old are ALL out for the evening’s stroll and quite snappily dressed I might add.  I love it here. 

Enough about walking, tonight I am on a mission - IR de TAPAS!  All in Parte Vieja (old town).

TXEPETXA has about 18 different ways they prepare anchovies!  Who cares if you can’t pronounce the bar’s name.

Some of the offerings do stay within the fish family, but the strangest sounding one I ordered was actually surprisingly delicious - anchovy with blueberries.  I’d order it again, better than the one with foie gras, apple and anchovy.

Moving on...

They say GANBARA is THE place for wild mushrooms and from the looks of things, I’d say so.  A plate grilled ones is pricy €18 but they are oh so worth it.  No white buttons here!

Next stop is CUCARA SAN TELMO.  This place is really packed with a young crowd.  What it might lack in old world charm, it more than makes up for in outrageously inexpensive duck breast and foie gras.  

Those two dishes win the evening’s price/quality award- succulent and delicious.

LA CEPA is known for it’s jamón (ham), but personally I prefer Ganbara (maybe I am just too much of a prosciutto girl to judge though).

There is so much food packed into this tiny area you can eat anything!

                                                                         Clams

                                                                         Gold

                                                                    Art & Sea Urchin

It’s still hoppin’ at 22:00 but after 10 tapas bars, I need to call it a night!

The next day I’m ready for more and headed to the Gros neighborhood.

If you want Michelin quality food “in miniature”, ALOÑA BERRI is a must - the most creative tapas of the trip.  I would recommend going early unless you are fluent in food Spanish (or Basque).  The dishes here are complex and it is nice to have someone who has time explain the array of delicacies laid out on the bar.  They are more than happy to oblige but it does get frenetic at meal-time.  Grab a table, you will want to stay a while!

                Start with some warm ups from the bar before ordering the signature dishes.

    

                  Calamari with a risotto cake in squid ink and a sea liquor martini to finish.

To eat this “Award Winner” you must first lick all of the flavors off the strip- never done that before!

The simple veal cheeks and tapas combos are equally delicious.  You must become a master at the most simple level before you can achieve success with the molecular modern cuisine.   Think of the evolution of Picasso.

Bonus- the chef/owner helps out at the bar and is super nice (as far as I can tell in limited Spanish and sign language)!

            Also in Gros is BERGARA.  Very tasty snacks with a fun local crowd of all ages.

There’s a Piazza Fest, (oh, we’re in Spain, I mean Plaza Mayor Fest!) celebrating all the regions of Spain - What Luck!  So what region has the longest lines?  Galicia!

There was a line for these octopus at 1:00, 3:00 and still when they were shutting down at 9:00!  Are there any octopus left in the sea?  Well, I must see for myself what the fuss is about.

Incredible- see I cleaned my plate!

Even though I consider myself a pretty hip chick and these dishes are beautiful,

FUEGO NEGRO back in Parte Vieja didn’t blow me away. 

The tuna tartare on the right was sitting on a sweet slab of something that had the texture and sugar content of saltwater taffy.  Maybe some things really just don’t go together??

                       

                                                    Do NOT miss San Sebastián!

              CIAO FOR NOW!   Next the wild interior, filled with vineyards and asadores.